Another opera!

I was happy with seeing one opera in Paris, but now I've seen two!

My opera class scheduled another visit to the Opéra Bastille to watch a semi-dress rehearsal of Puccini's Tosca, which is one of the more famous operas today. It's about a beautiful singer whose lover is arrested for aiding a fugitive, and to save his life, she has to give herself to the chief of police. It ends in tragedy, but the opera is very moving and I would definitely pay to see it as a real performance.

I managed to take a few pictures of the rehearsal, but I had to be very quiet and not use flash because otherwise it woud disturb the singers and the orchestra, meaning I'd get in trouble.

Here's my opera class sitting in the balcony on my left!

And here's me and my friend Laura taking pictures and trying to be quiet!

Here's a video I took of part of the performance. The lady in the long dress is Tosca, the singer, and the man on the scaffold is her lover, who's also a painter. The woman off to the right is the model posing for the big painting on the left.



This rehearsal was a little earlier in the production process, meaning it wasn't a complete dress rehearsal like the other opera I saw. Only the main characters were in costume, so it was a bit odd seeing soldiers marching around in jeans and t-shirts. Also, they took 20-30 minute breaks in between each act, and at the end, the orchestra had a mini-rehearsal to fine tune some of the passages. I thought it was cool that I could understand what the orchestra director was saying to the musicians, especially since a lot of musical words are in italian. But that's seven years of piano lessons for you (thanks, mom!).

I'm definitely happy I signed up for this class. :)

Bisous XOXO

Visit to the Opéra Bastille

As planned, my opera class then had a visit to the Bastille Opera house!

We had actually already seen the Bastille Opera before since that's where they're currently playing L'Affaire Makropoulos, but this visit was just to learn a little more about the building in general.

Here I am in front of the building by the entrance!

One of the main things I realized about the Bastille Opera is that a) it's very very modern and b) it's very functional.





You can see how modern it is just by looking at the outside. There are squares of glass everywhere, creating a geometric design that makes the building look, in my opinion, cold and stoic.





When we visited, they still had the posters up for The Makropoulos Case.





The inside is very similar to the outside concerning the geometric design and the impersonal feel. I was looking on Wikipedia for a better description, and I found that someone said it looks like an airport lounge. I agree.





The view to the outside was pretty cool, though. In the picture you can see the Bastille monument in the center of the roundabout, and if you look out further to the left, there's a nice view of the Eiffel Tower and Notre Dame. And about a few blocks to the right is my apartment!

I know my opinion of the Bastille Opera house isn't too favorable (especially compared to the Opéra Garnier) but I should give it credit for being extremely functional. Our tour also included some of the backstage areas where the performers rehearse and where they construct the sets. I found out that there are basically 9 stage-sized cubes: one in the front and center that you actually see during performances, 2 on each side of the main stage, and the remaining 6 completing the grid behind the main stage. This allows for them to move entire sets, kept completely intact, out of the way so they can show a different opera the next night. (Remember the King Kong from the Makropoulos opera? He was being kept on the left front stage.)








And here we are going down one of the many stair cases in the building.

The design of the public spaces kind of reinforces the fact that the focus in this opera house is the performance from the singers, and not from the socialites who attend on any given night. As you can see, the curved hallways make it difficult to do any people watching, so I guess that scene will remain with the Opéra Garnier, where the grand staircase gives a great view of the other spectators.

Obviously, I prefer the Opéra Garnier. :)

Bisous XOXO

L'Affaire Makropoulos

Emilia Marty dressed like Marylin Monroe.

I saw my first opera!!!

My opera class scheduled for us to go see a final dress rehearsal for the opera called L'Affaire Makropoulos (The Makropolous Case) at the Opéra Bastille, which meant that we saw the opera exactly how it was to be performed for a real show, but for free! The only downside was that we had to write a critique about it for class, but hey, it was worth it in my opinion. Who can say they did homework at an opera house in Paris? Hmm?

While the singers performed, there were old movie clips projecting in the background.

So here's what the opera was about:

There's this famous singer named Emilia Marty who was given this elixir of eternal life from her father back in the 1500s and she's still alive today. However, the potion is losing its effects so she has to find the formula again to recreate it. All this isn't revealed until the end of the opera, though, so it's a mystery to find out who this woman is who's connected somehow to all these people in the past (she changed her name several times throughout the years and moved all around Europe to hide her identity). She's also portrayed as a sort of sex icon in that she has this power over every man who sees her. But in the end, she realizes how horrible life is when there's no end to it, and gives the formula for the potion away so she can finally die.

King Kong!

Honestly, I didn't do any research on the opera before I saw the rehearsal, so I had a little trouble at first following the plot (especially since it was sung in Czech, so I had to read the subtitles, which were in French by the way). But after I caught on, I really enjoyed it. The opera was set to an old Hollywood backdrop, and that's why you see Emilia singing with King Kong and wearing outfits reminiscent of Grace Kelly and Marylin Monroe.

Emilia Marty, the sultry singer desired by all men.

I thought the acting was phenomenal too, especially from Angela Denoke, who played Emilia Marty. She emitted the right kind of sex appeal that was necessary for the role, and her voice was so dramatic too. The one thing I didn't like was the music, because there wasn't really any melody to the whole opera. It was as if they took a regular stage play and threw some music in there really quick to be able to show it in an opera theater. But I was impressed with how the singers managed to memorize the entire show without a single good melody.





So here's the view from where we sat! You can see at the top where they project the subtitles so you can follow along with what they're singing.




I was surprised to see so many people at the dress rehearsal. I don't know how the ticketing works, but I assume that since it wasn't a real performance, you could buy a reduced rate ticket for the show.

Maybe I'll keep that in mind in case I get the chance to go see another opera...

Bisous XOXO

Un dîner operesque

Since my Spring Break trip, a lot of interesting things have been happening in Paris. Many involve my opera class and various events, but the point is that I'll be posting a lot in the next few days, so try to keep up!

As I said before, my opera class has a few outings scheduled for the semester, mostly including visits to the two main opera houses (one of which we've already done at the Opéra Garnier). On this night however, we all met up for a nice little dinner just to get to know one another.

We went to this cute restaurant called Chez Gladines, where the atmosphere is cozy and the menu is Basque, a style of cooking from a region in the southwest of France bordering Spain. So that means it's like French food with some Spanish elements like beans and rice. Oh, and sangria! I can't forget the sangria... you can see an almost empty carafe on our table. :)




I had a great time getting to know some of the people in my class. Not everyone came, but our two professors stayed up until the food arrived. I think everyone shares the same opinion about our professors: first, there's the more reserved, older man, who is very passionate about opera, but comes across a little stern and intimidating. In fact, whenever he talks to me, I somehow forget how to speak French, and I'm not the only student who has that problem. We also call him 'hairline', based on the fact that the front of his hair looks like it's receding but he makes it fluffy enough on top so you can't really tell. (ha ha)

The second professor is known as 'the cute one', obviously because he's younger, handsome, and he smiles every now and then. I think a couple girls in my class were trying to flirt with him at this dinner we had too...


As for the students, I found out that almost everyone in my class is from abroad, and we're a pretty diverse group in general. The majority of my class is either from Asia or the US, but then there are people from all over Europe. It makes me wish that my classes back at Georgia Tech organized dinners like this because we barely ever get to know the people in our classes, unless there's a group project. And I think it's definitely a lot more fun going to class when you know most of the people there already.

So it was fun! I ate a huge Basque salad, lots of sangria, and now I know everyone in my class. Pas mal.

Bisous XOXO

P.S. pas mal (PAH MAL) = not bad. French people say that when they mean "oh my god that was awesome!" but still want to sound cool. :)

Hunting through Paris! ... Day 7 (Invalides, opera, and protesting)

I intentionally skipped Day 6 because that was mine and Hunter's "day off" from being tourists, meaning we took barely any pictures. We slept in, stayed around my apartment, and just took a nice little break in the middle of the week.

But on Thursday, which was Day 7, I had class in the morning, and Hunter started off the day by visiting the Invalides with Monica!

In case you're not familiar with it, the Invalides is like a huge military museum, and the chapel in the picture above is where Napoleon's tomb is located.







Here's Hunter posing by the bridge Alexander III, which is one of the more opulent bridges in the city (see the gold?).

Here's Monica posing by the bridge.

Hunter again!

The lovely Monica!

He looks so happy!

Here's Monica standing in the courtyard holding Hunter's dossier! Remember how I made that self-guided tour for him? I put everything in this file along with maps of other parts of the city, things to read if he got bored, and things to know about the Invalides for when he went there with Monica!

Another happy picture of Hunter!

Then they went inside the chapel to see Napoleon's tomb.

Here's Monica standing in front of the tomb.

Hunter was apparently in awe over the domed ceiling.

The tomb by itself.

Pretty soon, my class ended and I met up with them in front of the chapel. Monica had to go, so I had Hunter to myself for the rest of the day!

I decided to get creative with the camera! Here's Hunter doing his best military poses.

Hunter found a van with this fencing picture on it, and since I used to fence sabre, he wanted me to do my best lunge. Good thing my skirt was stretchy!

Here's my pensive look in front of the dome.

Couple picture!

After we played around at the Invalides for a while, we decided to go back to that bike rental company to rent bikes for the remainder of Hunter's visit (it's so much more fun going places on a bike than taking the metro!). We picked up the bikes really quickly because we had to be at the Paris opera house soon after that.

As I said before, I'm currently taking an opera course, and part of the course includes visits to the major opera houses in Paris- Opéra Garnier and Opéra Bastille. Opéra Garnier (also called the Paris Opera) is the house that everyone is familiar with because it's the older one and it's also referenced in the play "The Phantom of the Opera". Lucky for us, our class's visit to the Opéra Garnier was scheduled for the Thursday that Hunter was here, and my professor agreed to let me bring him along on the tour! It was amazing! We learned so much about the house's history, its architecture, and they even took us backstage to see people working and rehearsing. The only downside was that the entire tour was in French, and our guide spoke really quickly and without many pauses, so when I did finally get the chance to translate the information to Hunter, I basically had to remember several sections of the tour all at once.

Here we are inside the opera house!

I had to take a picture of the ceilings! Our guide told us that the art in the house had a lot of influence from Greek mythology because the overall impression was meant to be that the opera is like a sacred temple of music that's blessed by the different gods pertaining to the Arts.





Here's our group standing in the main entrance. We were told that when the house was built, the opera was more of a social event than just a time to go see a performance. Every public space was meant to be a sort of scene or backdrop for the people walking around, because back then, the real show was watching everyone else who came, similar to how we watch award shows on tv today (it's more about what the celebrities are wearing than who won something). This room was therefore one of the most important because it allowed the people to have a grand entrance, to watch others entering the house, and to mix and mingle.

Couple shot in the main entrance!

The ballroom was also really important as a public space. It's similar to the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles, and was another area for people to mingle. Also, this room was meant to show off the wealth of the opera house and the Bourgeoisie, rivaling the opulence from the monarchy shown at Versailles.






Here's Hunter admiring the artwork on the walls. I wonder what he was thinking in between the translations....

Couple shot in the ballroom!

Here's a picture of one of the smaller rooms just outside the ballroom. The ceiling was meant to resemble the sun and how it shines for the world of opera. Another symbolic reference.







Back to the main entrance! This is the grand staircase and it is the single most important part of the house because it's where you are first seen by society and where your opera experience begins. Below the staircase the lighting is dim and as you ascend the stairs, the lighting becomes brighter, so the overall effect is that to enter the temple of opera, you must ascend toward the heavens, toward the light, and become enlightened along the way. It was supposed to be a spiritual experience as well as impressive.

Here's what it looks like to ascend the staircase.

This room was the entrance for the wealthier patrons. There are mirrors all around and from every angle so the patrons could check themselves before they entered the main entrance and the scrutiny of society's eyes upon them.





Next, we went into the actual theater...
Here's a picture of the ceiling and the chandelier. The ceiling is painted with references to some of the great operas in history, Like Romeo and Juliet for example. And the chandelier is amazing with no explanation!






Here is some of the seating. We found out that the average seats will usually sell for around 70 euros. The nose-bleeds where you can't see anything run for around 30 euros.

And if you're wondering why they chose red and gold for the color palate in the theater- it's because these colors are the most flattering for human flesh tones, so it was more for the audience to look appealing instead of the performers.







Here's one of the box seats right next to the stage. Seats like these were the most preferred and the most expensive- not because you get a good view of the stage (the best seats for the view were actually in the balcony towards the back). It was because those places were easily seen by the rest of the audience. Just think, all you had to do to see the patrons in the box was shift your eyes slightly from the stage. Remember, the Opera was more of a place to see and be seen than anything else.

Here's Hunter glowing in the flattering reflection of the seat cushions!

Then, they took us backstage!
Here's the actual stage! Notice that it's at a slight incline towards the back. The reason why is because the incline allows for the performers and scenery in the back of the stage to be easily viewed just like the front of the stage.






Here's a dance studio with some dancers rehearsing. Our guide told us that the studio is decorated similarly to the public spaces because this is where the patrons of the opera would come backstage to meet the performers. This room also has a promiscuous connotation because there were always rumors that the relationships between some of the patrons and the female dancers were less than professional. Plus, there are peepholes in various places in the walls so that stage workers could peer in on the dancers while they were changing. Those peepholes are still there.





Now, if you've ever seen or are just familiar with the story of the "Phantom of the Opera", you know about the rumor of the underground lake below the opera house. Well, the rumor is partly true since there is actually a water reservoir below the house. But the best part is that we got to see it!


We had to go several stories below the house to see the water, and there were cages over the openings so you couldn't fall in.





As you can see, some of the floor is usually wet, so they had boards for us to walk over.

So here's the story behind the water:
As the opera house was in construction, one of the major obstacles was the swampy foundation and the underground water they were building over. Charles Garnier, who was the architect that the house was named for, came up with the genius idea to utilize the problem as a solution. The major problem with opera houses in general is that the weight is unevenly distributed throughout the building. The heaviest section is the stage (in the middle), and the lighter sections are the public spaces and the administative offices at the back, so the ultimate effect would be that the whole house would sort of cave in at the center. Garnier decided to use the underground water to prevent this by creating a reservoir and using the water to help balance the structure. The plan worked, and the design was used for other opera houses around France.

Another benefit of having an underground reservoir: because the decorations were so flammable and because of the gas lighting, there was always a tremendous risk of fire. However, with a ton of water close by, you have a quick way to stop the fire before it spreads.

Here I am by the reservoir!

That was the last bit of the tour. I really enjoyed it, and I'm excited for the next our at the Opéra Bastille!

After the tour, Hunter and I rode our bikes back to my apartment.

Here's my glamour shot of the day as we were riding through the city!

Funny face by the Seine!
(I think the face was because I was on a bike with a skirt on that kept riding up. I got a good bit of attention that day, ha ha...)

We rode through the Bastille on the way home, and we found part of a huge protest along the way.

It was crazy! As you can see, there were people hanging off the Bastille monument and the whole square was shut down (the road behind us is a round-about that's usually packed with cars).

There were so many people that we couldn't ride our bikes and it took a while to navigate through the crowd on foot. It's hard to see, but here I am in the middle with my bike.

I'm not sure exactly what they were protesting that day and exactly who was participating, but I know that Sarkozy's reforms are upsetting a lot of people here. Protesting and strikes are usually a normal occurrence here in France (they call it descendre dans la rue, meaning to descend into the streets), but it seems to be a lot more frequent lately.

I found a BBC news article that explains what happened that Thursday pretty well, and has links that give a little insight as to what's been fueling the unrest here if you want to know more:

French strikes- BBC

So it was a pretty eventful day!

Bisous XOXO